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Play Spot the Difference with Ghirlandaio and Andrea del Castagno ?

17.5.12

Two images – was Ghirlandaio playing “spot the difference” or is there a message in his changes?

So clever is the use of perspective and a central vanishing point one really feels when entering the Ognissanti refectory as if there is an additional room at the end  -albeit filled with some rather strangely dressed people.

The painting has been restored between 1998 -2000 and the face of Christ is distinctly of a different hand to those of the Disciples, but the overall style is distinctly Ghirlandaio - full of character, animation and lots of little details.

In this painting most of the details are symbolic – on the table together with the traditional bread and wine there are apricots- symbols of sin,  cherries – the blood of Christ,  lettuce for penitence, and citrus fruits as symbols of eternal life  - specifically oranges symbolising Paradise.

In the background there are cypress trees as symbols of redemption and lots of birds including a sparrow hawk attacking a duck – a wicked bird as ducks represent earthly joys. Quails and starlings are symbols of self sacrifice and in the right hand window a  peacock – whose meat was reputed never to go off – represents resurrection, supported by the immortal lark.

 

Interestingly this beautiful Last Supper by Domenico Ghirlandaio is the first of two very similar paintings done by the artist. The one above was painted in 1480 for the Franciscan church of Ognissanti in Florence- and the second one filling a very similar space in a refectory was done in 1482 for the Dominican Church of St Mark - just a little further north in Florence’s Piazza San Marco.

 

The most obvious change is the appearance of the cat sitting behind Judas - a symbol of deceit and treachery – puss seems to have replaced the bag of money Judas is clutching in the original.

The table cloth has changed – due to latest fashion or the taste of the Dominicans?  There is slightly less food and no lettuce for penitence on the second painting and the subtle halos of the disciples have all been replaced by shiny gold ones. St John (Mary M?) is even more deeply asleep on the table and the expression on Peter’s face has deepened from quizzical to open dislike – and the knife he is later going to use on the ear of one of the arresting Roman soldiers looks primed and ready for use on Judas Iscariot!

Ghirlandaio was clearly attracted to the theme – the artist had already completed his first full fresco of the  Last Supper in 1476.

Last Supper: 1476

 

Andea del Castagno was probably the forerunner. He first painted the theme between 1445-1449 when he painted the refectory at the Cenacola Santa Apollonia - one of the first putting a tense Judas sitting bolt upright on his stool across the table opposite Jesus and Peter?

In some ways this earlier attempt is more funky – even psychedelic – than Ghirlandiao – I mean what exactly is going on in the explosion of colour above the heads of the three keys protagonists in this battle of wits -Freud could have had a field day?

Judas, Jesus and Peter in a muddle

Judas, Jesus and Peter in a muddle

 

This painting also has some significant changes in details and in the attributes of the personalities involved – and helpfully each of the disciples names is written under their chair.

the 1476 Last Supper in Cenacola Santa Apollonia

the 1476 Last Supper in Cenacola Santa Apollonia

In this painting it is an elderly Andrew who is brandishing his knife and looking for an ear to detach, whilst Peter looks relatively benign and supportive.

St Andrew with his knife at the ready

St Andrew with his knife at the ready

This painting is also part of a wider picture, above the cross painting of the Last Supper, is the remains of a crucifixion painted by the same artist – the down bar of the cross would have led the eye down to the cross bar of the white table cloth.

To my eye the perspective of the Last Supper once again really punches the images into another room within the space on the wall. So they are in the refectory with the Monks as well as being in their own private room below the now damaged images of the Crucifixion above.

So three paintings – three images of Judas as the outsider, Peter as combatant or trying to smooth over the argument - Thomas always in doubt, John always asleep but sometimes looking more feminine than others? I wonder which will linger in the mind longer,  and would love to know your preferences in the feedback form below?

 

 

 

 

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St John the Baptist – not just one special day of partying – a whole week of events to enjoy in 2012!

11.5.12

St John the Baptist celebrations 2012

As patron saint of the City of Florence ever since the era of the Longobards, (ie way before the early Renaissance celebration shown above!) St John the Baptist’s Special Day of June 24th always goes out with a big bang of a magnificent firework display! -

This year there is an additional festival being delivered to make the festa last all week!

Immagine articolo - Il sito d'Italia

The Festival programme is shown below, but also view the organisers website www.johnhoenig.com for full details of what, when, and where to expect some of the activities shown below.

It is great to see some of the expats giving something special back to the City that we all love so much.

FESTIVAL PROGRAMME

Thursday 21st June

OPENING DAY OF FESTIVAL

16:00 – 19:30   Via Maggio galleries open

“Il passato è presente”

20 mostre antichità e contemporaneo

Friday 22nd June

10.00 – 16.00   Conference
Preparing the Way:

the representation of John the Baptist

in art, music and literature”

The British Institute of Florence
Lungarno Guicciardini 9

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

Saturday 23rd June

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

Sunday 24th June
FEAST DAY OF SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA

10.30   Sung Mass at St Mark’s English Church

Via Maggio 16

20.00   “San Giovanni Battista” Oratorio

by Alessandro Stradella 1675

St. Mark’s English Church

22.00    Fuochi d’artificio

presented by the

Società San Giovanni Battista

Monday 25th June

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

20.00   “San Giovanni Battista” Oratorio

by Alessandro Stradella 1675

St. Mark’s English Church

Tuesday 26th June

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

Wednesday 27th June

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

Thursday 28th June

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

17.30   ‘I Musici Toscani’  Concerto

Giovanni Battista Viotti

String Quartet No. 13 in F Major

Cappella Palatina, Palazzo Pitti

Friday 29th June

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

Visite guidate alla Cappella di Santi di Tito

dedicata a San Giovanni Battista

Palazzo Ridolfi Zanchini, Via Maggio

15:30-16:15  &  16:15-17:00

su prenotazione

Saturday 30th June

FINAL DAY OF FESTIVAL

All Via Maggio galleries  – orario apertura delle gallerie

Visite guidate alla sacrestia di Santa Felicita

per vedere l’opera d’arte

dedicato a San Giovanni Battista

15:00-15:45  &  16:00-16:45

su prenotazione

21.00  ‘Il Canto Gregoriano per la Vergine
e San Giovanni Battista

Maestro and organist Michele Manganelli

Chiesa di Santa Felicita

 

Sponsors shown below – more welcome!
                                                                                                       
                                                                                                  
                                                                                 
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Todo in Tuscany – a heartwarming story that I am sure will be a best seller

Todo in Tuscany – by the way this photo was taken at La Foce 

How could any true Brit resist? – A beautiful Tuscan villa with a friendly dog thrown in for free! Blow the beauty of the villa – the right dogs always find their rightful people don’t they?

Todo and Lawrence and Louise seem like a match made in heaven – escaping the inescapable noise and dirt of life in London they are living their Tuscan dream near Lucca with this adorable companion who refused to give up his home when his owners died – and like Hachiko in the film that Richard Gere made in 2009, Todo stayed at his post waiting for them to come back.

Todo now has his own Facebook page , Twitter feed and within the next few weeks his own book will be published by Hodder – with a good press launch – which surely must mean a good dinner for him whilst the people quaff their Chianti?

The book is published by Hodder and Stoughton on 7th June and the launch party on 24th

Congratulations to Louise and Lawrence on their new home, their new activity and most of all their new clever pet – and best wishes for great success with their book.

ps can’t wait to see the film too!!?

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Tuscan Garden Tour with wine tasting – led by garden historian Dr Katie Campbell14-18 May 2012

Many Tuscan gardens in and around Florence are a mixture of  Italian landscape and English formality – we are mixing Italian design and Italian wine for our tours!

These tours are led by a garden expert and driven by a professional and licensed tour driver.

In the late 19th Century, after the Unification of Italy and Florence’s brief period as Capital of Italy, property prices in Tuscany plummeted and allowed Anglo-American expatriates to purchase huge villas at a ridiculously low cost. The advantage to today’s tourist is that these expatriates in exile used their money to re-establish these formal gardens to their previous glory and have left their heritage for us to visit.

Tuscan villas were often surrounded by farms and vineyards with beautiful gardens at the foot of the villa. Tuscans, with their artistic sense and attachments to their surroundings, create gardens that fit into their landscapes and use limited colour that doesn’t perish under the Tuscan sun.

Some details below on our proposed garden visits for May – but they are not yet set in stone so alternative suggestions are welcome.

If you are looking for somewhere to stay or if you want more information about the hotel and tour costs email penny.

Book by Dr Katie Campbell - our guide

 

Dr Katie Campbell –  our guide for these tours is the author of  the recent book Paradise of Exiles – the Anglo-American Gardens of Florence

Join us for a week of custom designed garden tours with garden historian Dr Katie Campbell

Whether it is a single afternoon or the full five days, walking tours within the city, day trips to nearby hilltop villas or an extended trip around Tuscany, our garden visits can be tailored to your interests and your budget.

Our schedule below offers a small group a private 5 day tour of various Tuscan gardens – many of which are not generally open to the public.

Saturday 12 May - 16.00 – Katie will give a presentation and Q&A -(plus book signing for sure!) – at the newly and beautifully refurbished BM Bookshop on Borgo Ognissanti – the new owner of this delightful shop is called John Werich, and he has kindly agreed to host this afternoon and refreshments will be provided!

Katie will talk about the Anglo- Americans and the Tuscan Villas they bought and gardens they re-furbished with references to some of the writers and painters featured in the current Americans in Florence Exhibition at the Strozzi Palace 

Monday 14 May

private tour to gardens in and around Fiesole 

10.00 Sybil Cutting’s Villa Medici with garden redeveloped by English landscape gardener and architect Cecil Pinsent

11.00  Le Balze - home of American Philosopher Charles Strong

12.30 Vincigliata - visit to house and gardens + wine and cheese tasting at this extraordinary medieval castle rebuilt by English peer – Sir John Temple Leader. NB This castle is not generally open to the public but used for weddings and conferences so we are very privileged as a small group to be allowed to visit.

16.30 Il Palmerino – a glimpse of the home and garden of prolific author Vernon Lee - and maybe a cup of tea while Katie introduces this interesting character!

Cost per head  - tour in private Mini-van with professional driver + private professional garden historian guide + entry fee to gardens

 =€99 

Castle + wine tour + wine and degustation lunch at Vincigliata = €30

Cost for day €129 

Tuesday 15 May

09.30 Villa Schifanoia - in San Domenico – one of the many reputed sites of Boccaccio’s Decameron

11.00 La Pietra - a garden stuffed with statues at the home of the Actons

13.00 Lunch near Fiesole - la Casa del Prosciutto 

14.00 - Villa Gamberaia - retreat of Romanian Princess Gyka and English Miss Blood


16.30 Villa Maiano - for wine tasting and antipasti - this is another villa redeveloped by Sir John Temple Leader – now used for period films such as A Room with a View and Tea with Mussolini.

17.30 -if we are in time we hope to drop in for a quick visit to the Iris Gardens of Florence – only open in May with the beautiful view of the City under the setting sun.

Cost per head  - tour in private Mini-van with professional driver + private professional garden historian guide + entry fee to gardens

 =€99 

Visit to Villa Maiano + wine tasting and antipasti €15 

Cost for day €114 

Wednesday 16 May 

11.30 Palazzo Picolomini  - in Pienza – home of the humanist Pope Pius 11

1.00 lunch in San Quirico d’Orcia – plus a visit to Horta Leonini another small public garden in the village

3.00 La Foce - home of  author Iris Origo

drive to Montipulicano - trying to follow the route taken by Iris and family when they had to move their school and hospital from La Foce during the Allied attack – we will stop for a glass of wine there before returning to Florence

Cost per head  - tour in private Mini-van with professional driver + private professional garden historian guide + entry fee to gardens

 =€109 

lunch and wine at cost but we have a fixed price menu c€20  

Thursday 17 May 

a walking tour of gardens in Central Florence 

10.00 Boboli Gardens- Grand Duke Cosimo 1 and Eleanor de Toledo’s garden behind the Pitti Palace provided entertainment for their growing family and inspiration for Marie de Medici in Paris 

11.30 Bardini gardens - Stefano Bardini - another great collector who sold to the Anglo-American expats

12.30 Tuscan lunch in San Niccolo area

14.30 Giardino Corsini 

16.00 possibly  Giardini dei Torrigiani, 

17.00 Optional taxi up to Bellosguardo for a glass of wine at sunset in the gardens of Torre di Bellosguardo - once home of the formidable Lady Paget

Cost professional guide + entrance to Boboli and Bardini gardens and exhibition of garden painting at the Bardini €60 

Friday 18 May 

a day trip to Lucca 

11.00 Villa Reale aka Villa Marlia - home of Napoleon’s sister when she was Duchess of Tuscany

12.30 Villa Torrigiani, at Camigliano

13.30 lunch in Lucca at Rusticanella 2 

14.30 Palazzo Pfanner a setting for a Portrait of a Lady

 16.00 - Gardini Garzoni in Collodi 

17.30 return to Florence - arrival about 18.45

Cost per head  - tour in private Mini-van with professional driver + private professional garden historian guide + entry fee to gardens

 =€109 

lunch and wine at cost 

Cost  fluctuates daily for private travel in air-conditioned mini-van with Dr Katie Campbell as private tour guide.

Some images below with links to blogs about our 2011 visits

Villa Marlia – not far from Lucca

Marlia Villa Reale Garden

 11.45 Villa Torrigiano – the Garden of Flora

 Palazzo Pfanner Tuesday -the garden of the four elements used in Jane Campions’ film Portrait of a Lady

Villa Garzoni - a mass of walls and mazes 
Villa Garzoni, Italy

Dr Katie Campbell

Katie Campbell

 

About your tutor

Dr Katie Campbell lectures on the postgraduate Garden History course at Buckingham University, she has led many tours and writes for various publications.

Her most recent book, Paradise of Exiles: The Anglo American Gardens of Florence http://www.franceslincoln.co.uk/en-gb/C/0/Book/1355/Paradise_of_Exiles.html explores the eccentric community of English and American expatriates which gathered in Florence at the end of the nineteenth century, while her earlier Icons of Twentieth Century Landscape Design looks at the seminal designs of the past hundred years.

She has also written a book about Scottish Gardens called Policies and Pleasaunces – Scotlands Gardens Today 

Dr Katie Campbell is also a journalist and fiction writer; her plays have been performed on stage and radio and she has published a novel, a collection of short stories and several books of poetry as well as Icons of Twentieth-Century Landscape Design (Frances Lincoln, 2006) and Policies and Pleasances: A Guide to the Gardens of Scotland (Barn Elms, 2007).

Where you can stay?

If you are visiting Florence we can arrange accommodation in various types of accommodation to suit all tastes and pockets.

Villa le Rondini - guests on the tour can stay in the prestigious hotel Villa le Rondini – set in the hills overlooking Florence this hotel shares the extraordinary views enjoyed by the Anglo-Americans who developed their gardens in Fiesole.

www.villalerondini.it

Alternatively Penny can arrange accommodation for you in the centre of Florence.  A small bed sit in a big mansion – San Frediano  offers large rooms with frescoed ceiling and river views – but we need to book early to secure them!

www.sanfredianomansion.com

For more information about the hotel and tour costs email penny direct on penny.howard1@ntlworld.com

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Painting plates – in the style of Mondrian – or in my case nearabouts!

21.1.12

My thanks to my dear friend Beatriz for suggesting plate painting as a interesting activity for Beyond the Yalla Dog and for introducing me to Vincenzo at Office Lab or Ufficino Ceramica – not only have we held group activities in their studio but last night I attended a really informative lecture on Dutch painter Piet Mondrian- which stretched my Italian a bit I must confess but vale la pena (worth the effort!)

Self Portrait, 1918

From a selection of three images that we had templates for I chose to paint one of his earlier Cubist paintings, called Grey Tree, on my plate – I doubt whether the final result will look much like this – in fact my neighbour commented that my tree looked tortured – but what a good time I had torturing it!

One of the most interesting parts of the lecture was a video film, which visually tracked the development of Mondrian’s work from naturalism , through pointillism, fauvism and cubism

’s “Apple Tree in Bloom” Piet Mondrian(1912) Thank you for posting this as it is one of my favorites since childhood. (via Proof<br /><br /><br />
)

to his most well known works of Neo-Plasticism - so clever and beautifully done – view on youtube link 

After our buffet supper – slow cooking on a hob whilst we enjoyed the lecture – it was our turn to paint like Mondrian.

The plates below are already bright and colourful and they haven’t been fired yet – I cant wait to see the shiny finished articles – maybe I will give mine to my Aunt – or maybe just add it to the others on my dresser!

Mondrian Plates

Mondrian Plates

 

 

 

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Christmas is over – Let’s Queue!

30.12.11

Everyone seems to be at it – the most photographed queues are the ones outside Selfridges, Harrods and Bridgewater Outlet – but all across the country British people are standing patiently in queues and trying to teach all our visiting tourists  the “proper”way to take part in one of our favourite National pastimes!

My queue on Wednesday was outside the National Gallery in London, where I arrived a little later than planned after 08.00, and joined what looked that a surprisingly short queue outside the Sainsbury wing to try and see the much lauded exhibition Leonardo da Vinci – Painter at the Court of Milan – 1482-99.

Queue for Leonardo - 08.30

Queue for Leonardo - 08.30

Naturally this was not the case! – the hidden queue stretched back around the corner and doubled back on itself before reaching out across the front of the National Gallery to where I stood without moving until after 10.00 – but enjoying a good view across Trafalgar Square.

Booted, hatted and gloved in the mild winter sunshine it was quite a pleasure to stand and people watch and contemplate the joys to come,  but by the time my friend Leslie arrived at 09.30 the misty sunlight had been replaced by rain clouds and National Gallery Officials were busy turning away newcomers trying to join the queue and facing a lot of abuse for their trouble! But good news for us – albeit not until  18.30 – we were definitely going to get in!

So the next stage was the wait – I don’t think Leslie, who is over here visiting London from her home in Florence, was the only one in the queue who thought I was joking when I said the wait could be 4-5 hours – just to pay for the tickets – and she , poor thing, had left the house in the mild winter sunshine and actually gone back in to drop off what seemed unnecessary encumbrances – gloves, scarf and hat…… BIG mistake!

Lovely Leslie adopting the pose of a penguin outside the National Gallery

Lovely Leslie adopting the pose of a penguin outside the National Gallery

Beautiful and still smiling lovely Leslie bravely tried to fend off the cold by flapping her wings like a penguin – but it was no good – instead we adopted the Swiss clock approach – one going inside the Gallery and getting warm and then changing places with the frozen one who dived in for her turn in the brilliant (warm) National gallery bookshop!

But was it worth the effort you say? Yes, of course it was !- probably one of the best thought out arrangement of masterpieces it was possible to devise – starting with the key to the exhibition in the first room – a small drawing of the ventricles of the brain and the layers of the scalp – Leonardo wanted to show his concept that “seeing” impacted the working of the brain – and more importantly – the soul, imagination and intellect. The exhibition then goes on to show Leonardo’s  development from his arrival in the court of Ludovico Sforza in Milan as a musician, (Did you know that?!)to a much sought after portrait painter.

The show also contains drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, including this anatomical drawing of the ventricles of the brain and the layers of the scalp (c. 1490-4)

He moved the portrait genre from the formalised pictures of rich Donors in profile found in churches across Italy, through to the innovation of face forward character studies, with emotion and expression displayed though their gestures and most importantly – their eyes.

To me the most beautiful luminous painting displayed is that of Cecilia Gallerani, the 16 year old mistress of Ludovico Sforza, holding the ermine which might symbolise the purity of her beauty ( white winter stoats prefer death to getting their coats dirty they say!) – or might symbolise her relationship with the Milanese leader who had recently been appointed as a Master of the Ermine.

Also shown at the Exhibition is the recently re-discovered – and re-attributed to Leonardo – Salvator Mundi – Christ as the Saviour of the World holding a rock crystal orb to represent the universe.

Christ as "Salvator Mundi" (c. 1499 onwards)

The final part of the exhibition in the Sunley Room is all devoted to the Last Supper - A copy of the wall painting where Leonardo painted all the characters in the Last Supper  displaying emotions in line with their behavioural characteristics as described in the New Testament.

There has been a whole book , in the form of an excellent catalogue, written about the works in this exhibition, which still only covers 17 years of a long and highly productive life,  so I don’t plan to attempt to rewrite it here      -  After all seeing is believing – but you need to get there early – ( the Gallery officials mentioned people queuing from 05.30!!)  and Yes!!Yes ! Yes! – it is well worth the wait!

 

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Cooking class in Florence 22 December – with Lisa Banchieri at Amor di Vino

1.12.11

Next cookery class with Lisa in Italy will be a Christmassy experience on 22nd December – starting at the central market in Florence at 10am – the experience will allow us to make all the fresh food from scratch – enjoying a cook’s perk of a glass or two of prosecco as we work, obviously we will eat the fruit of our labours washed down with a nice chianti.

All recipes are printed and you are provided with a pen to make notes plus an apron to keep you clean – all of which you can keep as a souvenir of your lesson.

Cost €79

After we have visited the Central Food Market in Florence at 10am we will return to the basement of aptly named Florentine restaurant Amor di Vino to create our own pre-Christmas meal.

To save turkey for Christmas day we are going to cook lamb with artichokes but first we will make seasonal bruchette to Lisa’s special recipes,

bruschetta

then fresh pasta for ravioli with pear and ricotto, melt in the mouth gorgeous!

Lisa with pasta stretched and ready to make ravioli

Lisa with pasta stretched and ready to make ravioli

Above :- Lisa with pasta stretched and ready to make ravioli

Then the rich lamb roast with artichokes

Roast Lamb with Artichokes

Leg of lamb roasted with artichokes

and finally a panna cotta with seasonal forest fruits – NB some of the images used are borrowed from other recipes for illustration purposes.

 Panna cotta with fruits of the forest recipe

Yummy – gia mi viene l’aqualina in bocca! 

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