Beyond the Yalla Dog

24 June 2011

Notwithstanding the fact that it was in the era of the Longobards – 3rd Century AD -that Florence adopted St John the Baptist as the Patron Saint of the City  -it wasn’t until June 24th some time in the 13th century that the first celebration dedicated to San Giovanni Battista took place in Florence.

But now the Florentines have really learnt how to celebrate the Saint’s Day in style and yesterday together with various religious ceremonies , there was a host of things to do and see:-

• The Official reopening of the tower of St Niccolo, part of the original wall surrounding the city – now restored and opened to visitors. It is the only part of the City wall not reduced in size in the 1500 and visitors will get a magnificent view of the City if they make it to the top.

• And thinking of City Walls there is also a fully costumed re-enactment of the famous football match of Feb 1530 whilst Florence was besieged by Imperial troops and the players were encouraged to make as much noise as possible to dispel any idea that the citizens of Florence were suffering from lack of nourishment! As indeed they were – as a result of a siege which had already lasted four months and had nearly five months to endure! Musicians and other jesters were asked to line the City Walls and play with gusto (under fire!!) in a further attempt to prove that life was as happy as usual within the besieged city! When the City finally capitulated – guess what? – they got the Medici back! – this one, Alessandro the first “Duke of  Florence“, – being – by all accounts – significantly worse than Ippolito, the previous Medici they had ousted! This year’s winner was rewarded with the prize of a treasure chest full of real gold coins!
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PS When I say “fully costumed” that was only at the beginning you must understand!!

• There was also a Tuscan Vogarno rowing race, a rowing race between Florence, Pisa, San Miniato and Arno limits – and the Rowing Club of Florence was also the host for the lighting of the Palazzo wall with this image of St John the Baptist conducting the fireworks!

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  St John the Baptist

• A free concert – featuring Lucciano Maggiore and Francesca “fuzz” Brasini and other live music played in bars across the City.
• Perhaps less popular with the motorists within the City – today was the occasion of the permanent closure of three roads to public traffic, creating more safety for walking tourists!

As per the image shown below – courtesy of Tourism in Toscana – last night the Arno was lit up by the most magnificent display of multi-coloured fireworks.

Today is the turn of the Oltrarno to celebrate all night and as I write this I am bombarded by the sounds of men at work, – constructing tents for tonight’s festivities and testing the loud speaker systems – Fortissimo!

The market to end all markets is developing right outside my window – Basta! (Enough) I must go and join the festivities!!

But let’s not forget the founder of the feast – Poor John the Baptist – he had a bad time of it after he insulted Herod’s wife Herodias - and their daughter Salome demanded his head on a platter.

Tonight – once again – let’s drink to his good memory!

Salome with the head of John the Baptist by Caravaggio