25.09.11
Florence’s famous old Palace – Palazzo Vecchio is currently open from 9am to Midnight – and night time is a great time to view it – it feels like you have sneaked in without the tourists and the lighting throughout is magical.
However my guests and I decided to play a children’s game whilst we were there and seek out as many images of Grand Duke Cosimo I famous symbol of Festina Lente -the turtle with a sail – as we possibly could.
One disadvantage of this game that we quickly discovered was that we got severe cricks in our necks!! Nonetheless it was fascinating to view just how many different ways this creature has been displayed in one – very large – house!
The first sixteen we found were part of the repeated decoration of the ceiling panels in the Salon of the Cinquecentro – bold gold turtles with a sail as big as they are.
The concept of Cosimo’s motto is “Hurry up – Slowly” – and links with the Aesop fable about the tortoise and the hare – the steady tortoise winning the race in the end – which he used to encourage the prudence of the turtle combined with the strength of the power of the wind in the sail.
Despite the rumour that there are as many as a hundred of these creatures hidden in the palace – we only found 28 in tonight’s search – some on the ceilings, some on the walls and some on the floors – maybe we should join the children on Tuesday morning who go on a Turtle Search as part of the children’s activities in the Palace?
turtles with Putti
There are a lot of fascinating images and family stories to be found in the Palazzo Vecchio – not only these “Hurry Up Slowly!” turtles so beloved of Cosimo and a late night visit feels very privileged.
A few of the paintings just show the tortoise or turtle within the images – without his sail – but the majority feature the creature as a symbol of the Tuscan Fleet – complete with billowing sail.
Festina Lente
I am looking forward to going back to the Palazzo Vecchio on Friday night for a concert directed by Federico Maria Sardelli held in the Room of Cinquecento.
In the meantime, the job lot of a tortoise in Florence is not an easy one! These solid chaps are upholding the weight of a mock Egyptian Obelisk in Piazza Santa Maria Novella – and this afternoon were suffering the further indignity of each balancing a pigeon on their nose!!
Tortoises with pigeons atop
Grand Duke Cosimo I used the square of Santa Maria Novella for an annual chariot race (Palio dei Cocchi) which continued from 1563 through to late in the 19th century. He chose some of his favourite symbols to support the obelisks marking the beginning and the finish point of the race.
These bronze tortoises were made by the sculptor Giambologna in 1608, – so given their age and their supporting role they are looking in pretty good shape!
