Final day of Garden Tour – Cetinale, Castello di Brolio and Good and Bad Government

Final day of 2012 Beyond the Yalla Dog Garden Tours – Cetinale, Castello di Brolio and a review of Good and Bad Government in Siena

Cetinale , a villa near Siena was constructed by Carlo Fontana , a pupil of Bernini, between 1676 and 1719 – we visited under the best autumn light, travelling up a long windy unmade road as the mist was just beginning to burn off under the early morning sunshine where we were privileged to be admitted to this magnificent garden.

Cetinale was one of 70 gardens profiled by early 1900s  American author Edith Wharton and featured again when Vivian Russell wrote a book entitled “Edith Wharton’s Italian Gardens” in 1997.

Some of the gardens had been bombed during the past two world wars, while others were spoiled by tourism or neglect.  Fortunately for posterity Cetinale, has been owned and significantly restored after war damage by English Lord Lambton, and his family, over the past 40 years.

Lord Lambton left his parliamentary position after a run in with the News of the World in 1973 involving a prostitute called Norma Levy and her snap-happy husband!

When challenged by MI5 in relation to being a security risk Lambton eventually admitted that his judgement in relation to enjoying prostitutes was faulty due to his obsession with the battle over the use of the aristocratic title that had been used by his father.

In his defence Lambton claimed that he sought to soothe this obsession by engaging in frantic activities such as gardening and debauchery – Lucky for us – the results – in the gardens at least – are spectacular!

Penelope Hobhouse, the internationally acclaimed garden designer, called Cetinale ‘the epitome of garden design’, and has written that the flower garden is ‘one of the most beautiful in Italy’.

This Villa was used as the Villa in question in the film made of Somerset Maughan’s short story “Up at the Villa”  starring Kristin Scott Thomas and Sean Penn

In the days when Florence was continuously at war with Siena the Sienese wisely moved their annual party surrounding the Palio outside the Piazza del Campo in the City centre and brought the whole event up to be held in the woods near the Villa of Cetinale.

The only remnants left of this period are some rather magical stones ,which you come across whilst walking in the woodland park and realise they represent all the contrade (districts) taking part in the race and are images of their insignia – The Noble Eagle, The Snail, The Flagship of the Wave, The Panther, The Forest, The Tortoise, The Prior Owl, The Horned Lion, the Noble Conch Shell, The Ram, The Tower, The Noble Caterpillar, The Noble Goose , The Imperial Giraffe, The Sovereign Porcupine , The She Wolf and shown below in this lovely photo taken by artist Caroline Jervis – The Dragon.

Castello di Brolio

Castello di Brolio has always been under the influence of Florence, even although it is closer to Siena, due to the affiliation of the family -the Ricasoli -who have been owners since the 9th century.  As a strategic outpost the castle was besieged and destroyed many times over the centuries. Every time it has been reconstructed following the style of the current age.

It suffered its last attack during World War II, as can be seen by holes left by shrapnel all over facade.

The castle we see today is partly the new-Gothic reconstruction ordered by Bettino Ricasoli in the 1800s.

From the front you can admire a breathtaking view over the Chianti region – on a clear day seeing as far as Siena and the dramatic mountain range behind La Foce – as well as the best view overlooking the formal Renaissance gardens, which are  almost art deco , with geometric shaped bushes.

 

 

Bettino Ricasoli, was nicknamed the Iron Baron for his strong resolve and conviction. He was one of the leading politians promoting Italian union before 1861

Our ticket, as promised for all our garden tours, included a wine tasting so we were able to sample a Brolio or Chianti wine.  The Iron Baron himself is reputed to have been the first to create the recipe for what is now the traditional red Chianti wine -mixing three different grape varieties in different quantities- at least 80% being sangiovese – the barons own recipe was used up until 1967 to produce Chianti Classico DOC.

 

 

A quick guide to Good and Bad Government – fresco painting by Ambrogio Lorenzetti on the wall of the Palazzo Publico in Siena

All’s well in this painting below – beautiful buildings, organised teaching, peaceful trading and dancing in the street – All’s well on the right hand side of the room!

On the left side chaos reigns , the marauders are at the walls of the City , the walls are falling down and the Devil seems to be in charge.

 

The horned leader of the badly governed city – not a pretty sight!

More on the subject of Good and Bad Government later in the week – but in the meantime it is goodbye to the gardens until next year – probably in early May – when the wisteria is at it’s best.

So – Goodbye from Katie till then – we are shown below enjoying caresses with some friendly cats we found on our travels yesterday- (please note how we instinctively colour co-ordinated our choices!) –  Our thanks to everyone who joined us and we hope to see even more of you in these beautiful gardens next year – and plenty of other Beyond the Yalla Dog activities continue all year round!